This past week has been a pretty typical week of classes. I-chats (which is an English conversation partner program that pairs international students with Korean students) began this week. I have eight different Korean students that I will meet with weekly. The students have very good English, but their confidence in speaking is something we as partners hope to improve.
My brushpainting class has been quite interesting as well. This past week we began working on elements for our midterm painting. Bamboo was the focus of the lesson. Let's just say that bamboo is more difficult to replicate to the teachers standards than what the class previously believed. We worked on painting the perfect bamboo stalks, confidently presented it to the teacher, only to have our hopes shattered one by one as she marked it with the infamous blue sharpie with areas that needed the be improved. My first bamboo was more blue than black by the time she was done with it. Hopefully the class will gradually improve so that the blue marker can be set aside.
This weekend I visited Deoksugung Palace with Jinyoung. We arrived at the palace and because of the lack of people interested in listening to an expert on the palace, we went on a private tour of the palace grounds. It was interesting to hear what our tourguide had to say about this palace and to learn the significance of it in Korean history.
Deoksugung was always a temporary palace. It was appointed the main palace after the destruction of Gyeonbukgung and Changdeokgung after war with Japan in the late 1500's. It was then made the capital palace again in the late 1880's when Korea's King Gojong appointed himself as Emperor, more about that later.
One reason Deoksugung could be a temporary palace is that it is located away from the other palaces, right outside of historic Seoul, but it is still close to the heart of the city. It is not in the center of the city seeing that Seoul has expanded far beyond any previous city limits. It is also built in the traditional format which means that it is not built with nails, but with perfectly set pieces. This made it very easy for the Kings to move their temporary palace elsewhere if they did not like the original location right outside of the city.
This palace is also special because it was the last Kings palace before the Japanese occupation. He chose to live here following a fire at Gyeonbukgung. It was here that he decided to try to transition the Hermit Kingdom into another East Asian force. He changed his title from King, which is symbolic of a power limited to one specific country, to Emperor, which carries an understanding in the region that the state is equal to the other powers. This transition also led to the construction of a Korean Temple of Heaven, because the change in title resulted in additional spiritual and ancestral rites that must be conducted by the Emperor.
This title change also changed the relationship between Korea and its neighbors. Korea's partnership with China concerning mutual protection was eradicated with this change in title. This was a change in relations in East Asia that opened the door for Japan to colonize Korea. With the rise of the Meiji in Japan and its opening to the West before Korea, Japan was more influential in the region and on the world stage. This advantage consequentially led to unequal treaties between Korea and Western powers (including the USA) that slowly gave influence in Korea to Japan.
The desire of Korea to open itself to the world is evident in this palace as well. It is the only palace that has Western style buildings. The first is a building in European style that was used to host foreign ministers. It is eerie to see these buildings and realize this is where many of the unequal treaties were signed that crippled Korea's attempt to modernize through globalization into a world power. There is also a terrace designed with a fusion of Russian and Korean architecture. You can see it in the deer and bats decorating the terrace with the typical colors of Korean palaces. This is where the Emperor entertained guests. It also displays the close relationship Korea had with Russia at the time. Following the assassination of the queen by the Japanese, the Emperor Gojung fled to the Russian legation in Seoul to protect himself from an assassination attempt. His royal chamber in this palace is located next to a shrine chamber for his deceased queen.
Following the Japanese occupation, the Western delegation building was converted to an art museum, with an additional building built. Another change to this palace by the Japanese during the occupation was the elimination of the traditional garden and modified into a Western style. To Koreans, gardens must be fashioned in a certain way to promote harmony. By changing it to a foreign style, the harmony was destroyed, symbolizing to the Koreans the end of the harmony they knew having a Korean monarch.
While so much has been lost, the palace has been restored to one third of its prior design. It serves as a page to a chapter in Korean history that was initially filled with hope with the transition of globalization, only to be crushed by its cold consequences of being abused by powers who do not view you as equal and colonized by a power that shares a complicated relationship of conflict. The old Korea meets the transitioning Korea in this palace, marking the end of Joseon and opening a painful chapter that is not yet complete with the separation of the Koreas.
After visiting the palace, we went back to the Hwangs new house in Sungkyungkwan, about ten minutes from Anyang. While we waited for the rest of the family to arrive, Jinyoung gave me a tour of their new spacious apartment. We then had some dinner and watched Harry Potter, a movie that we watched for the first time together two years ago. When the rest of the family arrived, we played a few games while catching up. I challenged Eujin to a game of battleship and won in a very close game. The family then played a round of Phase Ten, which was also very exciting and a great way to enjoy our time together.
Spring is starting to make its way to Korea. The Yellow Dust is back from the Gobi desert bringing lots of allergies for people. But spring making its way means that the blossoms will be coming soon!
Sunday, March 24, 2013
Monday, March 18, 2013
North Korea's Latest Threats
Once again, this post is a bit overdue, but nevertheless, it is one I wanted to share:
Last Monday, North Korea announced that it will no longer follow the guidelines of the ceasefire with South Korea. This followed a severance of communication between Pyeongyang and Seoul. These actions were done in retaliation to the increased sanctions and culminated in the joint military drills between the ROK (Republic of Korea = South Korea) and USA.
The rhetoric coming from the North has also been very critical of President Park, the first woman president of the South, using rhetoric referring to her inferiority compared to a male leader. It is the first few weeks of her presidency: the woman who took the role of first lady after her mother was assassinated during her father's administration. It is quite an interesting contrast of leaders. On one side you have a young third generation Kim leader who is still trying to prove himself to his fathers generals. On the other side you have Ms. Park, who has grown up in politics yet has much to prove to her people as the first woman president of South Korea.
While these actions are very hostile for relations between the Koreas, this is not the first time that the North has severed communication or treaties with the South. There is a continuous trend of the DPRK (Democratic Peoples Republic of Korea = North Korea) developing contrived "hostility" in order to maintain its presence in the international news and to maintain some level of control over the behaviors of its neighbors.
For the North, global attention is its only way to continue to have some relevance in the world. Without the economic or political influence to shape global events, they revert to developing threatening rhetoric to keep the spotlight on themselves. It makes sense as an impoverished nation surrounded by three of the worlds largest economies to strive for attention in order to maintain some control over these three superpowers actions.
Another reason for establishing these hostilities is a direct reaction to the continued military presence of the US in the ROK. The military drills conducted by the joint army every spring angers the North annually. The Cheonan sinking three years ago followed one of these joint drills. Again, threats and minor provocations are used by the North to maintain a presence in the dialogue in the region.
So what does South Korea think? Is there a feeling of fear of an eminent attack?
The answer is a resounding no.
While the rhetoric is present, no one is really concerned about the latest threats. Everyone sees it as propaganda to internally unite the North and to keep a presence on the world stage. The Korean sentiment and reaction to the latest from the North can be summed up by the ROK defense minister:
'Seoul’s Defense Ministry dismissed the threats, saying it is not detecting any signs of a new nuclear test or missile launch.
“North Korea is seen to be uniting its people internally through a series of political and military activities and externally pressing South Korea and the U.S. through threats to shift their North Korea policy in the face of Key Resolve and Foal Eagle exercises and U.N. sanctions,” ministry spokesman Kim Min-seok said in a briefing. (Korea herald)'
For South Korea, as long as North Korea is a political state, there will always be a possible threat. It is a part of day to day life here: an awareness of what is to the north, but an understanding that as long as South Korea is economically and politically dominant on the world stage, it would be impossible for the North to lead a campaign against the South. This is one quality I appreciate about South Korea: There is a graceful acceptance of the neighbor to the North, but there is also a strength to not allow this hostile neighbor to inhibit life in the South.
Last Monday, North Korea announced that it will no longer follow the guidelines of the ceasefire with South Korea. This followed a severance of communication between Pyeongyang and Seoul. These actions were done in retaliation to the increased sanctions and culminated in the joint military drills between the ROK (Republic of Korea = South Korea) and USA.
The rhetoric coming from the North has also been very critical of President Park, the first woman president of the South, using rhetoric referring to her inferiority compared to a male leader. It is the first few weeks of her presidency: the woman who took the role of first lady after her mother was assassinated during her father's administration. It is quite an interesting contrast of leaders. On one side you have a young third generation Kim leader who is still trying to prove himself to his fathers generals. On the other side you have Ms. Park, who has grown up in politics yet has much to prove to her people as the first woman president of South Korea.
While these actions are very hostile for relations between the Koreas, this is not the first time that the North has severed communication or treaties with the South. There is a continuous trend of the DPRK (Democratic Peoples Republic of Korea = North Korea) developing contrived "hostility" in order to maintain its presence in the international news and to maintain some level of control over the behaviors of its neighbors.
For the North, global attention is its only way to continue to have some relevance in the world. Without the economic or political influence to shape global events, they revert to developing threatening rhetoric to keep the spotlight on themselves. It makes sense as an impoverished nation surrounded by three of the worlds largest economies to strive for attention in order to maintain some control over these three superpowers actions.
Another reason for establishing these hostilities is a direct reaction to the continued military presence of the US in the ROK. The military drills conducted by the joint army every spring angers the North annually. The Cheonan sinking three years ago followed one of these joint drills. Again, threats and minor provocations are used by the North to maintain a presence in the dialogue in the region.
So what does South Korea think? Is there a feeling of fear of an eminent attack?
The answer is a resounding no.
While the rhetoric is present, no one is really concerned about the latest threats. Everyone sees it as propaganda to internally unite the North and to keep a presence on the world stage. The Korean sentiment and reaction to the latest from the North can be summed up by the ROK defense minister:
'Seoul’s Defense Ministry dismissed the threats, saying it is not detecting any signs of a new nuclear test or missile launch.
“North Korea is seen to be uniting its people internally through a series of political and military activities and externally pressing South Korea and the U.S. through threats to shift their North Korea policy in the face of Key Resolve and Foal Eagle exercises and U.N. sanctions,” ministry spokesman Kim Min-seok said in a briefing. (Korea herald)'
For South Korea, as long as North Korea is a political state, there will always be a possible threat. It is a part of day to day life here: an awareness of what is to the north, but an understanding that as long as South Korea is economically and politically dominant on the world stage, it would be impossible for the North to lead a campaign against the South. This is one quality I appreciate about South Korea: There is a graceful acceptance of the neighbor to the North, but there is also a strength to not allow this hostile neighbor to inhibit life in the South.
Saturday, March 9, 2013
Orientation, Cheonan, and the first week of classes
Last Thursday was the orientation for the international students at Anyang. In contrast to the two day epic orientation at SCH, this orientation was two hours long followed by a dinner at one of the nicest buffet restaurants in town. We were provided with a review of our "survival guide" and opened bank accounts in the orientation. After a very stress free orientation, we feasted on sushi, galbi, kebabs, and other fusion food.
On Tuesday, I had my first days of classes. I don't have any class on Monday, providing for me something I have never had: a four day school week. Very happy about that!
Here is a list (and a brief description) of my classes this semester:
Korean speaking and listening - pretty self explanatory. My teacher is a very energetic guy who asked us to call him "flower man." In our first day of class, he asked us to introduce ourselves with all the important things one must know about a person: name, age, home country, marital status, and number of kids. It led to quite an interesting conversation as each person introduced themselves!
Korean reading and writing - Again, pretty clear. This teacher was the teacher for the beginning class last semester, so it will be interesting being the only new student in the class.
Cross cultural communication - This is a class that includes "I-chat" which is similar to the exchanges I had while at SCH. In class, we will talk about culture focusing on differences between East and West. We will also have two hours a week of meeting with different Korean students and engaging them in English conversation.
Korean society - This is by far the class I have enjoyed and most excited about thus far. While I have taken other classes in modern Korean history, this class will integrate history with how it has shaped elements of the culture.
Ari Leadership - This class is a combination of Korean and international students that focuses on discovering one's identity and purpose. It is taught by the head of the exchange program here, which will bring an interesting dynamic to the class.
Traditional painting - This is an art class taught entirely in Korean. We will learn some calligraphy as well as methods to paint many iconic images in Korean art (bamboo, flowers, etc).
I also joined the English journalism club at Anyang. At the first meeting, we discussed our game plan for writing the one full campus newspaper for the semester (because the club must pay for the printing, it is too expensive to publish multiple newspapers each semester). We divided into subjects for the paper with one international with five Koreans. My team will be writing three articles about international issues. I am excited to be more involved on campus and to work with fellow students in improving their ability to write formal articles. I am also excited to meet more Korean students on campus, since so many of my classes and my dorm is composed of only non-Koreans.
Gyeongbukgung
Alright, I'm back to blogging after a bit of a intermission. The craziness of the first week of classes prevented me from posting these last few entries. Hopefully once the groove the semester begins, I will be able to post on a consistent basis. Bear with me!
The Anyang group
March 1st marked the national holiday March 1st Movement Day. It is a government holiday that remembers the Korean freedom fighters who protested the occupation of Japan in 1919. It marked the beginning of more widespread discontent of the Japanese occupation, which set into motion both nationalistic sentiment internally in Korea as well as gave hope to the Korean government in exile in Shanghai. While it would be almost 25 more years before Korea would be free, the sacrifices of these Koreans in this movement installed the notion of a free Korea and increased the amount of protest within the colonized state.
The main hall where the king conducted governmental affairs.
Initially for this holiday, a group of international students from Anyang were planning to visit Dongdaemun prison, which was a place where many of these freedom fighters were tortured and killed. But because of the crowds at the prison, we decided to postpone our tour of the prison and visit Gyeongbukgung Palace, which has relevance in both ancient and colonial Korean history.
The elaborate design of regal Korean architecture.
Gyeongbukgung was built in 1395 during the Joseon dynasty. It was the largest and most elaborate palace during the Josean period. It was the main palace for the Kings of Joseon and was the location of all legislative dealings.
Traditional floor heaters
It was destroyed first during the Japanese invasion of the 1500's and restored in 1867. It was then partially destroyed and converted into the main government hall for the Imperial Japanese government in Colonial Korea. It has been partially restored progressively since the end of the Korean war, but the scars of the past in the absent buildings on the palace grounds are evidence of its tragic past. However, restored Gyeongbukgung is a testament to the reclaiming of the history and cultural heritage of the past by Koreans today. The buildings have been restored through the detailed guides written and preserved from the original architects of the palace. While nothing can replace the original buildings that were destroyed, it is commendable that Koreans choose not to forget their history and celebrate their heritage through restoration. 
The palace gardens
One of the most interesting facets of Asian palaces is the fact that it was the only places where the king was allowed to dwell. In Korean culture much like ancient culture in many other Asian countries, the king was forbidden to be seen by commoners. As a result of this sacred nature of the king, he was never allowed outside the palace walls. The Korea he perceived was the artificial environment he was exposed to in his various palaces. He was a prisoner in a way to the system of protecting the integrity of the king by not allowing him to make his own decisions for his life. While he ruled a country, he had no control over his personal life. When you walk through the palaces, you see Korea through the eyes of the kings of the past.
The front gate overlooks the rapidly changing skyline
Another cool thing about this palace is that it is located in the middle of the ancient part of Seoul. This area also is the center of many governmental centers and businesses. It is amazing to see the old meet the new and the graceful integration of modern Korea with ancient Josean.
The front gate and the continuous pace of modern Korea
Tuesday, February 26, 2013
Family reunion and arrival to Anyang
On Sunday, I was welcomed back by the extended Byeon family. The grandparents along with Uncle Josh's family joined us for dinner at home. We then opened the presents I brought from America. I brought games for the kids and shoes for Imo and my Korean mother. Everyone was excited to try the new games and the shoes were modeled with a lot of flair!
Jinyoung is now in middle school and is still her calm thoughtful self. Eujin also hasn't changed.....he is still bombastic as a seven year old. It was fun to see how much they have grown yet how much they are still the same kids I played Jenga and went to Nami island with.
On Monday, I made my way from Seoul to my school in Anyang. Anyang is a suburban region just outside of Seoul. It is about 40 minutes from downtown by subway, which is much closer compared to the two and a half hour epic journey from SCH in Asan.
Anyang University is a school of about 8,000. It is located on the outskirts of Anyang city on a mountain overlooking the suburban area. It is also a Christian university, which makes it the first Christian university I have attended. The founder of the international student program at Anyang also created the international student program at Soonchunhyang, so I am curious to see what is similar and what is different.
When I arrived, I went to the international student housing. The housing for international students at Anyang is a bit different from any housing I have experienced in my academic career. While I have lived in traditional "community" dorms in the USA and lived in a large suite style dorm at SCH, the housing at Anyang is a literal house where about 26 international students hold residence together. There is a kitchen, four bathrooms, six bedrooms that board anywhere from three to seven students, and a common area. In my room, I have two roommates: Emily from Missouri State (also from St Louis!) and Winnie from Tainan, Taiwan.
In our international student house (the larger house of two for international students at Anyang), there are students from the USA, Finland, Spain, Mexico, Taiwan, Turkey, and Germany. It will be quite an adjustment to live in a cozy space with so many different people, but I like the sense of community this type of housing brings.
In the past two days, I have spent a lot of time with the returning and new students from Anyang. It's been quite interesting being on this side of the experience again as a "newbie" yet feeling very comfortable in Korea. We went bowling downtown Monday night and Tuesday we toured the city to get more acquainted with the area. We also went shopping on Tuesday at Emart for groceries, which was very exciting. It is nice after three years of school to be able to cook for myself in the place I live!
Tomorrow is orientation for the new students. I am curious to see how it differs from the orientation I experienced at SCH.
Jinyoung is now in middle school and is still her calm thoughtful self. Eujin also hasn't changed.....he is still bombastic as a seven year old. It was fun to see how much they have grown yet how much they are still the same kids I played Jenga and went to Nami island with.
On Monday, I made my way from Seoul to my school in Anyang. Anyang is a suburban region just outside of Seoul. It is about 40 minutes from downtown by subway, which is much closer compared to the two and a half hour epic journey from SCH in Asan.
Anyang University is a school of about 8,000. It is located on the outskirts of Anyang city on a mountain overlooking the suburban area. It is also a Christian university, which makes it the first Christian university I have attended. The founder of the international student program at Anyang also created the international student program at Soonchunhyang, so I am curious to see what is similar and what is different.
Anyang
My room
The common room in the house
The kitchen
Tomorrow is orientation for the new students. I am curious to see how it differs from the orientation I experienced at SCH.
Saturday, February 23, 2013
Hello from Korea!
I am once again blogging from the Land of Morning Calm! While I am a bit late on this first post, I will be more prompt as the semester progresses to share what I experience and learn in this last semester of undergrad.
I arrived on Thursday evening at Seoul/Incheon after 22 hours of travel time. I flew from St Louis to Denver, Denver to San Francisco, and finally San Francisco to Seoul/Incheon. It was an exhausting day, unfortunately I have lost my ability to sleep straight through a 14 hour flight. However, I was able to catch up on a list of movies I have been wanting to watch. My favorite in flight movie while flying to Seoul was Argo, which was absolutely fascinating regarding the Iranian hostage crisis situation.
When I landed, I was greeted by my Korean parents. Hyesun and Kyunghye were working so they would meet me at home later. As we drove to Seoul from Incheon, I was surprised that my prior expectations of feeling jubilant to be back in Korea were not apparent in the way I expected. For me, Korea feels like home in a different way than Missouri feels like home, so I felt more at peace than over the top, going to an amusement park type excitement. It feels very natural to be back in a constantly changing, fast paced culture. I was not expecting to have such comfortable emotions to the experience of entering Korea again, which causes me to wonder how things will be different this time around in my studies and experiences over course of the semester.
Ancient Joseon Korea meets modern globalization in the form of Dunkin Donuts.
When I arrived at the Byeons home, I was completely exhausted and didn't stay up in time to greet Hyesun or Kyunghye. I was able to meet their grandparents, who have recently moved in with the family from their country home in Busan. They are very sweet and were eager to cook me my first meal in Korea Thursday night. I woke up to greet Hyesun and Kyunghye, my Korean sisters who lived with my family in high school. We spent the morning chatting and catching up about all that has happened in the last year. Kyunghye is now in university studying to be a teacher. She loves the college life and is working two part time jobs to save up for a trip to Europe. Hyesun is working in a new job and was finishing a large project upon my arrival. Their younger brother Seungyoung is currently studying for the college entrance exam, the Suneung, which means that he will be gone studying from 7am-11pm.
Friday evening I had dinner with one of my closest friends from SCH, Soko. Soko and I met while I was an exchange student and she began her graduate studies. She was an exchange student at SCH in her undergrad, upon completion of her studies in Mongolia she returned to SCH for graduate work. She is currently writing her thesis and working in Russian/Mongolian town in Seoul. We had dinner in one of her favorite Russian restaurants in Seoul with one of her friends. It was fantastic to catch up with her and to hear about her plans for her thesis.
On Saturday morning, I met Patty, my Taiwanese teaching-assistant from when I volunteered to teach at a summer camp in Taiwan two years ago. It was perfect timing because she was flying out of Korea after a two week vacation back to Taiwan to begin her college classes again. I also met her friend who went to high school with her at Concordia in Chiayi. We caught up on all of her recent adventures (including a trip to the Gobi desert) and her studies in university. We also had the chance to reminisce about memories from the summer camp.
Saturday afternoon, I spent time with another friend from SCH, Csilla. Csilla and I met when we both rode the bus from Seoul to SCH for the first time in our first semester. Since our time in Korea two years ago, Csilla has completed her studies in Hungary, worked for the Korean consulate in Budapest as a translator, and is now attending a university in Korea on scholarship. We talked about our reactions upon returning to Korea a second time.
Today will be a large family reunion with Uncle Josh, Imo, Jinyoung, and Eujin. It should be quite an interesting evening as I see how the infamous Eujin acts now as a seven year old. Tomorrow, I am planning to travel down to school to move into my student apartment in Anyang.
I arrived on Thursday evening at Seoul/Incheon after 22 hours of travel time. I flew from St Louis to Denver, Denver to San Francisco, and finally San Francisco to Seoul/Incheon. It was an exhausting day, unfortunately I have lost my ability to sleep straight through a 14 hour flight. However, I was able to catch up on a list of movies I have been wanting to watch. My favorite in flight movie while flying to Seoul was Argo, which was absolutely fascinating regarding the Iranian hostage crisis situation.
When I landed, I was greeted by my Korean parents. Hyesun and Kyunghye were working so they would meet me at home later. As we drove to Seoul from Incheon, I was surprised that my prior expectations of feeling jubilant to be back in Korea were not apparent in the way I expected. For me, Korea feels like home in a different way than Missouri feels like home, so I felt more at peace than over the top, going to an amusement park type excitement. It feels very natural to be back in a constantly changing, fast paced culture. I was not expecting to have such comfortable emotions to the experience of entering Korea again, which causes me to wonder how things will be different this time around in my studies and experiences over course of the semester.
When I arrived at the Byeons home, I was completely exhausted and didn't stay up in time to greet Hyesun or Kyunghye. I was able to meet their grandparents, who have recently moved in with the family from their country home in Busan. They are very sweet and were eager to cook me my first meal in Korea Thursday night. I woke up to greet Hyesun and Kyunghye, my Korean sisters who lived with my family in high school. We spent the morning chatting and catching up about all that has happened in the last year. Kyunghye is now in university studying to be a teacher. She loves the college life and is working two part time jobs to save up for a trip to Europe. Hyesun is working in a new job and was finishing a large project upon my arrival. Their younger brother Seungyoung is currently studying for the college entrance exam, the Suneung, which means that he will be gone studying from 7am-11pm.
Friday evening I had dinner with one of my closest friends from SCH, Soko. Soko and I met while I was an exchange student and she began her graduate studies. She was an exchange student at SCH in her undergrad, upon completion of her studies in Mongolia she returned to SCH for graduate work. She is currently writing her thesis and working in Russian/Mongolian town in Seoul. We had dinner in one of her favorite Russian restaurants in Seoul with one of her friends. It was fantastic to catch up with her and to hear about her plans for her thesis.
On Saturday morning, I met Patty, my Taiwanese teaching-assistant from when I volunteered to teach at a summer camp in Taiwan two years ago. It was perfect timing because she was flying out of Korea after a two week vacation back to Taiwan to begin her college classes again. I also met her friend who went to high school with her at Concordia in Chiayi. We caught up on all of her recent adventures (including a trip to the Gobi desert) and her studies in university. We also had the chance to reminisce about memories from the summer camp.
Saturday afternoon, I spent time with another friend from SCH, Csilla. Csilla and I met when we both rode the bus from Seoul to SCH for the first time in our first semester. Since our time in Korea two years ago, Csilla has completed her studies in Hungary, worked for the Korean consulate in Budapest as a translator, and is now attending a university in Korea on scholarship. We talked about our reactions upon returning to Korea a second time.
Today will be a large family reunion with Uncle Josh, Imo, Jinyoung, and Eujin. It should be quite an interesting evening as I see how the infamous Eujin acts now as a seven year old. Tomorrow, I am planning to travel down to school to move into my student apartment in Anyang.
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